Friday, June 24, 2016

Reel Clock

Reel Clock

Clock works including arms
Tuna/Dog food Can

Take the reel apart by removing bolts.

Drill a hole in the tin can (center). Then fit into the center hole of the reel.

Stain the reel to preserve the wood.

Install clockworks and arms. Insert battery in clock works.

Adhere the numbers as desired.

Table of wisdom


Small 22-29 inch industrial spool
A sheet of pressed wood (6' by 8' give or take)
Pencil/ chalk pencil
Two inch screws (5-7 of them)
Power drill
Jigsaw cutter
Thick heavy duty staples (1 to 2 inches depending on your rope.)
10 to 12 feet of white nylon rope (depending on how many holes) (Doesn't have to be white.)
 Black paint (or whatever color you choose) (quart or gallon, you can decide)
Modeling paint (I used gold and silver) (the small bottles that look like nail polish, usually found with the toy model cars)
2' paint brush
Bubble letter stickers (chose a font)
Fine tip paint brush
Masking tape
Electric sander
Spade drill head (the size will vary , it depends on the size rope you have. I used 1'' nylon rope)
​Exact o Knife (or something to cut the rope with)

Although this seems like a lot, This project should not take you longer than a week and a half. Especially if you have a lot of time on your hands. If you like the looks of the bolts and such on the top and bottom of the spool, then the pressed wood does not apply to you.

Steps 1-3

1)Take your spool and lightly sand both the top and bottom along with the sides and inner core. Choose which side you want to be the top.

2)Now, place the spool on top of the pressed wood and using a pencil, outline one circle. Label the circle top or bottom then flip the spool over and do the same thing. DO NOT use the same side to trace the circles. Each side will most likely be different in shape or size.

3)Taking the jigsaw cutter, carefully cut out the two circles. Clamp the top circle with the top of your spool making sure that the edges match up and that there is not too much over hang. Screw it into place, and repeat with the bottom. 

Steps 4 and 5

After you have screwed the top and bottom into place, take the electric sander and sand down the top and bottom once more till it is smooth to the touch.

Take the spade head drill bit and drill 5 to 7 holes two inches in from the outside edge of the top of the spool. The bit needs to be a little bit bigger than the width of the rope, but not too big. These holes will hold the rope in place.

Step 6

Paint the entire thing the main color. I chose black. You may have to do more then one coat of paint. And if you use a lighter color, then you may need to use primer. 

Step 7 and 8

7) Find some of your most favorite book quotes and write them down on a sheet a paper.
These are the ones that I chose:
"Words have no power to impress the mind without the exquisite horror of their reality." ~ Edgar Allan Poe
"We know what we are, but not what we may be" ~Shakespeare.
"Call me Ishmael" ~ Herman Melville
"It's not the size of the dog in the fight, it's the size of the fight in the dog."~ Mark Twain
"Stay gold Ponyboy... Stay Gold..." ~ S.E Hinton
"Not all who wander are lost." ~J.R.R Tolkien
"The world breaks everyone, and afterward, some are strong at the broken places." Ernest Hemingway

​Once you choose the quotes that you like, take the bubble letters and spell out the quotes on the top of your spool. once you have a quote done, use the chalk pencil and outline the letters. Carefully remove the letters and repeat until you have all the quotes done. Remove any bubble letters and continue onto the next step.

​8)Using the modeling paint and the fine paint brush, carefully paint in the letters. Use one color for each quote, but you can change the colors of each quote. I used gold and silver paint, because it really stuck out against the black background.

This step may take you a while. Be patient and don't do too much at a time. Take your time. The faster you work on this step, the more mistakes you will make.

Steps 9-13

Remember those hole that you drilled? Its time that we use them. For this step, you need the hammer, heavy duty staples, nylon rope, masking tape, knife, and lighter.

9)Tape the end of the nylon rope and burn the every tip till the wax molds into one piece. Feed the burned tip into one hole and through till the bottom.

10)Using the the heavy duty staples and hammer, place the rope on the inside of the bottom of the spool. The tip should touch the inner core of the spool. Position the staple so that the nylon rope ( an inch away from the very tip of the rope) is in between the spikes, and hammer the staple down into the wood. Take another staple and do the same thing but further out. Try to make the rope straight up and down with the hole that the rope is in. The nylon rope should bent up at a 90 degree angle.

11) Pull the rope tight, and then tie it into a knot at the top. Using two pieces of masking tape, wrap one piece at the very edge of the knot, then give yourself less than a centimeter in between and wrap the second piece of masking tape around the rope.  This step will help you keep your rope clean and keep it together when you go to cut it off.

12)Using the knife, carefully cut the rope in the gap between the tape. Then, burn the ends of the rope (both the knot and the piece you cut away). Remove the masking tape from the knot and repeat steps 9 through 12 until every hole has the rope and is tied off.

13) Take a damp cloth and clean off any left over chalk or dust. Sit back, relax, and give yourself a pat on the back for a job well done.


Now go out there and fill that bookshelf up with some all time classics! You've earned it!!!!!


Wooden Spool Chair

Rustic Rocker

Materials Needed

1 Large wire reel/spool (54x32x26)

1 Medium wire reel/spool (42x26x18)

Waterproof sealant or stain

3 in. galvanized deck screws

2 ft. of 2x6 (for optional footrest)

1. Preparing Spools

 Using a screwdriver and pliers, remove the staples from the spools. There are two nails securing the board near the cable hole in one side of the spool (see image). Carefully remove these nails in each spool, as this surface is exposed in the finished chair. 
Next, loosen the bolts holding the spools together, using an 11/16 ratchet for the nuts on the small spool. On the large spool, use a 9/16 ratchet for the bolts and a 5/8 open end wrench for the square bolts. Completely dismantle the small spool. Pulling slightly on the outside edges of the large spool, have a friend remove one of the cross boards through the notch in the spool. Repeat this until eight equal sized boards remain, so as to expose as few of the bolts as possible. Remember, these bolts are the main support for the spool.

2. Making and Mounting Seat Bottom

Next, move the boards in order to make a 1” gap between the middle two boards. Cut about one inch off two
 of the large cross boards so that they fit neatly near the center of the spool. The inside width of the center of the spool is not the same width as the outside, so measure from the center of the spool. Set one of these boards in the bottom of the spool to support the seat. Place nine of the cross boards from the smaller stool, curved surface up, from the gap to the lip on the large spool’s first cross board. At this time, set the internal support board to line up neatly with the seat boards, and fasten it by sending screws through the side of the spool. Replace any seat boards that were removed in the previous step, then line the boards up using roofing nails (see image) to achieve proper spacing. Fasten each of the seat boards to the internal support and remove the roofing nails.
Note: in this image, the seat back is in place. Notice the roofing nails in between the boards.

3. Making Seat Back

Using the previous measurement for the inside width of the large spool, cut one of the small spool sides to fit inside of the large spool (see image). Next, determine the proper seat angle by placing the seat back inside of the spool so that it rests on the seat bottom and the upper lip on the back. For us, this angle was five degrees. Determine the seat height, and make the proper angled cut on of the bottom of the seat back. Keep the cut-off piece to use for the footrest. Position the seat back so that it rests comfortably on the rear lip, and the angled cut sits on the seat bottom. Fasten the seat back by sending three screws through each side of the spool.

4. Making Stops

            Cut two 1” wide slices off of one of the spare large cross boards, and position them with the curve of the chair, so that the rocker can rock slightly farther back than seems comfortable, but still returns forward when a person sits in it. The exact placement of the stops is really a personal choice, but if you plan on creating a footstool, place the stops slightly further back than you normally would. Once you have decided where the stops should be, drill two holes in each, and fasten one with screws. Rock the chair back on the stop, and use the floor to mark the position for the other stop. Then, fasten it using screws.

5. Making Armrests

            Cut one of the large cross boards at an angle so that it will be parallel to the seat bottom when it is held against the seat back. For this step, our angle was
about 15 degrees. Next, sit in the chair, and have a friend hold the armrests to determine the most comfortable length and height for the armrests. Mark these measurements, and cut the armrests to length. Locate the two similar pieces of scrap cut from the sides of the seat back. If the cut surfaces on these pieces are horribly uneven, you may wish to level them off with a jigsaw. It does not matter if they are not perfect, but the more even they are, the more stable the arm rests will be. Choose a length that is slightly over half of the length of the armrest, and cut both armrest supports to that length, at the same angle used for the armrests (15 degrees). Set the armrest supports so that they fit neatly against the side and back of the chair and the armrests line up with the previous height measurement, then drill through the seat side of the boards and fasten them each with two screws. Thoroughly sand the armrests, removing the corners from the forward ends of the boards. Set the armrests down on top of their supports so that they sit well against the back of the seat, and have a friend hold them in place while you drill from the outside of the spool and screw them in place. Do not let the armrests move as you fasten them. If they move at all, they will be very loose and unstable.

6. Footrest (Optional)

Cut the 2x6 into six 6-in. pieces. Use the scrap from the bottom of the seat back as the top of the foot rest. Screw three of the 6-in. pieces to the bottom of this board to make the legs of the foot rest. If you want a taller foot rest, stack the remaining three 6-in. pieces on the other three and secure them.

7. Finishing

Once the seat and footrest are fully assembled, thoroughly sand any areas that will be touched during use. Sand the entire chair and footrest to remove splinters. There may be large areas of adhesive on the large spool where the label was. A fine wire wheel brush will effectively remove the adhesive, although you may need to sand the are afterward to remove the scratches. Use a brush to apply a stain or waterproof sealant to the chair and footrest. *You may wish to sand and apply stain to the inside of the spool before adding the armrests*

Thank you to the Witte brothers from the LISD JCC Middle College.